Top 5 Fixes for Common PC Problems

How to Survive the Worst PC Disasters

When it comes to computers, sometimes things go south...and sometimes they go to Antarctica. If your computer won't boot or your data's gone astray, panic is soon to follow, and you might find yourself making things worse in your haste to solve the problem.
The next time your PC decides to take an unexpected vacation, refer to our handy guide to see how to deal with some of computing's most devastating debacles.

Problem: Your computer won't boot

Likely Cause: Could be anything. Determining whether the issue stems from hardware or software is part of the fix.
The Fix: You'll have to play Sherlock Holmes to figure out what's dead. Take it step-by-step.

1. First thing: Check all cables (including the plug into the electric socket) to make sure everything is hooked up nice and tight.
2. Next, see if the power supply turns on. Listen for the sound of its fan or of your hard drive spinning. If you hear nothing, your power supply probably needs to be replaced. To confirm, consider testing the voltage output with a power-supply tester. Of course, you should also check your home's circuit breaker before doing major PC surgery, and try powering another device from that outlet to make sure it's getting juice.
3. If your power supply is okay but nothing appears on screen, plug in a different monitor (borrow one if you must) to ensure it's not your display that's blown. If the monitor proves to be good, try replacing the video cable. Still nothing on screen? If your drive is spinning normally, your video card is probably bad. Also make sure all the fans inside work when you power on the PC. You could have excess-heat issues.
4. If your monitor is working but you detect no hard-drive activity and see no display (or you see a display but the PC can't get through boot-up), reset the CMOS. Shut down the PC, unplug it, ground yourself, and take out the battery on the motherboard (click on photo above). Wait 5 minutes, and consult your PC manual or go to the vendor's Web site for instructions on resetting the CMOS jumpers. Reboot and see if that fixed the problem.
5. If the PC is still not functioning, bad RAM could be the culprit. Remove one memory module at a time (or replace each module with a known good one) and reboot after each test. Alternatively, create a free MemTest86 boot disk on another PC, and try using it to test the RAM.
6. If none of this works, your motherboard or CPU is probably damaged, and will need to be replaced. However, your data is probably still intact and can be recovered if you install your hard drive on another system. Consider going to a repair shop for an estimate on the repair; it may be more cost-effective to replace the PC. Also, a repair shop might be your best (and only) option if your PC is a laptop.
7. Finally, if the PC's BIOS routine runs but the drive won't spin, your drive may have crashed. See "Problem: Your hard drive has crashed" later in the article for help with that.

What If It's the OS?: As dire as these hardware failures seem, you're far more likely to encounter software issues, such as Windows refusing to start or freezing while it's loading. Here's how to get back up and running if your operating system is the problem.

1. Boot into Safe Mode. As Windows starts up, press the key as directed to reach the boot menu. Select Safe Mode. Often, Windows will recover if you boot into Safe Mode and then shut down and reboot normally. With Windows 7/Vista, you can also try the 'Repair Your Computer' option by selecting it at the boot menu (if you don't have that option, check your Windows 7Vista DVD for it). You'll have various choices to aid your PC: 'Startup Repair' is worth a shot.
2. No results? Try 'Last Known Good Configuration' at the boot menu, which is especially helpful if you have recently changed hardware or drivers. If this works, remove new hardware (which may be incompatible) and roll back drivers in Device Manager. Right-click My Computer (Computer in Windows 7/Vista), click Hardware (in XP), and choose Device Manager.
3. If you can run Safe Mode but not regular Windows, try System Restore (via Programs, Accessories, System Tools in XP; in Vista/7, click Start, type system, and choose System Restore from the Programs list) to roll back your PC to when it did work. The PC might have become unstable after an automatic download and installation of an update or other unattended download (you may want to change any default settings that allow such unattended installs to happen). Run antivirus and antispyware apps in Safe Mode, too.
4. If you still can't boot, you probably have heavy-duty Windows problems. Try to boot from an emergency CD like a Knoppix disc or an Active Boot Disk, which can help you to see whether your PC will boot at all and to collect any critical files from the drive.
5. If your PC is still unstable, reinstalling Windows is probably your best bet. You can do this chore while leaving data intact by using a standard Windows installation CD. In rare cases, vendor-provided recovery disks will perform non-data-destructive OS reinstalls too; check your manual to see if yours can.

How to Avoid It Next Time: PCs typically die unexpectedly, so focus on getting up and running quickly: Turn on System Restore, keep your system-recovery discs and copies of critical apps handy for reinstalls, back up often, and keep a spare hard drive and power supply. Using a drive-image program such as the Acronis True Image 2010 or the $70 Norton Ghost 15 can make it much easier to restore your PC and data, too. If you can, have a second PC to use in emergencies if your main system needs repair.

Problem: Your Net connection is dead

Likely Cause: Your router could have seized up, sunspots might be mucking with the Web, or...
The Fix: Start with the issues you can control. Modems and routers are vulnerable to frequent crashes. A simple reboot usually corrects the problem.

1. First, try using another PC to reach the Web (you could have a faulty network card in the first machine). If you can't do that, check if your local network is working (if not, the culprit might be the router, which you may need to reboot or replace).
2. Next, see if your cable or DSL modem is displaying error lights. If it indicates trouble, unplug it. You may as well do the same for your router and shut down your PC. Wait about 30 seconds after you've unplugged your gear, and then plug everything back in and start up your PC.
3. If that doesn't work, try resetting your PC connection in Windows. The most reliable way in XP is to click Start, Run and type CMD (in Vista/7, type CMD at the search prompt). Then type ipconfig /renew at the terminal prompt. You'll get a similar outcome by right-clicking the network connection icon in the system tray and selecting Repair. However, I find the terminal method more effective.
4. If you're still not online and you usually connect via a wireless adapter, try plugging in directly to the router via an ethernet cable. Still not working? Try skipping the router and connecting a PC directly to the modem to further isolate the problem. Check all cables and replace them if possible. Examine cable modems for fraying on the coaxial wiring.
5. No dice? It's time to call your broadband provider to check for known outages in your area. (Don't forget to check the obvious: If you use a cable modem, is the cable TV working? Did you pay the bill?) Some providers can test your network gear remotely, as well; in some cases the ISP may need to send a reset signal to your modem. But at this point you're likely dealing with a network outage. Such outages are usually temporary, but reporting them and complaining--repeatedly--will likely result in a speedier resolution.

How to Avoid It Next Time: Invest in backup connectivity gear--find a nearby friend whose Wi-Fi signal you can use, or buy a wireless data card and account for your laptop. Even having dial-up numbers for your ISP handy can get you online in a pinch.

Problem: You deleted a critical file, and you have no backup

Likely Cause: Not enough sleep.
The Fix: Most Windows users know that deleting a file doesn't really erase it. There's a good chance it's recoverable, even if it's no longer in the Recycle Bin.

1. First step: Immediately stop using the PC in question. Close all open programs and stop any real-time indexing services such as X1, Google Desktop, or Windows' own indexing service, as they could overwrite the file you're trying to recover.
2. Give one of the popular undelete products a spin. UndeletePlus can make quick work of scouring your drive for deleted files.
3. If an undelete tool doesn't work, start thinking about alternate places where the file might live. Did you e-mail it to someone? Check the sent items in your e-mail client, or ask the recipient to send it back to you. Was the file a photo or video? Check your camera's memory card, or perhaps you uploaded it to Flickr or YouTube. Many files exist in temp folders scattered around your hard drive.
4. With certain versions of Vista/7, you can use the Shadow Copy feature (on by default) to restore your files. Right-click the folder where your file was, and select Restore previous versions to retrieve your documents .

How to Avoid It Next Time: Nightly backups (or better yet, real-time backups) will make this problem a thing of the past. Also, once installed, programs like Undelete keep track of erased files until they are overwritten, and so make recovering them much easier.

Problem: Your trusty hard drive has crashed

Likely Cause: Whether it was dropped, became overheated, or simply died of old age, the hard drive is possibly the most failure-prone part of your computer.
The Fix: If you've traced a problem to your hard drive, the solution depends on the specific symptom it's exhibiting.
If the drive spins up but behaves erratically, you probably have data corruption caused by a failing drive. Try the following steps to recover your data and copy it to a good drive before the bad one dies.

1. Before anything else, if you're using an IDE drive, check that your data cable is connected properly, and if it is, switch to a new cable. IDE cables are notoriously cheap and prone to having their insulation stripped by the metal edges inside a PC case, shorting the cable.
2. Try booting with a Knoppix CD (as mentioned in our first problem, "Your computer won't boot") or another boot disk to learn if the drive is readable. If it is, back up the data to another drive and reformat the original disk to see if it is salvageable.
3. You may have bad sectors; try using HDD Regenerator to locate any. Download the demo and burn it to a bootable CD. If the free demo finds bad sectors, it's probably worth paying the for the full version of the software to recover the bad sectors and make the drive usable.
4. TackTech's Web site features manufacturer-specific utilities for virtually any hard drive vendor. Find out what company made the drive that's failing, then download the appropriate diagnostic application. All of the tools are free and can be of major help in diagnosing problems on a drive and repairing them. (Of these tools, those for Hitachi, Western Digital, and Seagate drives--in that order--will best work on other makers' drives, at least in part, so give any of them a whirl.)
5. If you still can't get the drive to boot, turn to data-recovery software to attempt to salvage lost files. You have dozens of alternatives in this market, and prices generally run $40 to $200. UndeletePlus and the Stellar Phoenix line are both worthwhile.

If the hard drive will not spin up at all, you can still try a few tricks to revive it. The following are all last-ditch efforts with only a slim chance of working--but if your drive won't even spin, it probably won't hurt to try. Don't do anything to further damage the disc, as a drive-recovery service might be able to help, too (more on this below). For example, don't tap or beat on the drive, and don't remove the cover from it and expose the heads. Such methods probably won't help and will probably cause data loss.

1. Hold the drive in your hand and rotate your arm outward quickly, parallel to the orientation of the platters (like throwing a Frisbee). Repeat several times. Make sure not to bang the disk on anything. This action is designed to solve a problem called "stiction" (static friction), which can prevent drive platters from spinning.
2. Try attaching the drive to a high-wattage power supply. Even though it won't draw extra power, a burst of juice from the highest-wattage power supply you find could jar it into spinning up one last time. I've seen this work.
3. The "freezer trick" is an old standby if you have a drive that is "clicking" but not spinning: Put the drive in a plastic freezer bag (and wrap it in a paper towel for extra protection against moisture) to keep water out, and then freeze it for a few hours. Let it thaw back to room temperature after you take it out, and get rid of any condensation you see. There's no agreed-upon length of time to freeze it, but start with an hour and work your way up to 24 hours to see if you can make the drive spin up one last time.
4. Remember that if you do get a dead drive spinning, don't let it stop until you've copied all your critical data. Chances are you won't have it working again.
5. If all else fails and you absolutely need data off the hard drive, your last, best hope is to send it to a data-recovery service.

How to Avoid It Next Time: Make sure backups are up-to-date. For added security, mirror a second hard drive to ensure you have a real-time backup with minimal risk of data loss and downtime. A cheaper aid: Monitor your drive's health with the free HDD Health utility, which uses SMART technology to predict impending crashes (though it won't catch them all). (You may need to scroll down the linked page a little bit to see HDD Health.)

Problem: You can't get into Windows because you forgot your password

Likely Cause: Consult your family physician for a complete diagnosis.
The Fix: With each version of Windows, recovering a lost password becomes a bit harder, thanks to Microsoft's inexorable security improvements. However, there's no need to abandon hope.

1. If it's your Windows XP log-in password, try logging in under another account with administrator privileges. (There may have been an account like 'Owner' installed, often with no password, when you first bought your PC.) Any administrator account can reset the password of any other account. If you're not using the Windows XP log-in screen (the one with the icons for each user), you can try logging in with the account named 'Administrator', which is hidden on the XP log-in screen. If you are using the XP log-in screen, try pressing <Ctrl>-<Alt>-<Delete> to reach the old, NT-style screen, which should allow you to type in the user name.
2. If no other account exists on the PC, you'll need to turn to third-party tools to reset the password or crack it. Ophcrack is the first third-party tool I'd recommend to recover a lost password: Using another PC, download the free software from ophcrack.sourceforge.net and burn it to a disc. Boot from this CD and watch Ophcrack go to work. Based on extensive password tables, it can recover most passwords in a matter of minutes, for all the accounts on a PC.
3. You also can try a tool that can reset your password if everything else has failed; note, though, that such tools generally involve a small risk of data loss or corruption. Offline NT Password & Registry Editor and Emergency Boot CD are both free, include bootable CD versions, and are fairly self-explanatory if you're comfortable working with the command line. Both can reset your Windows password for you, and they support multiple versions of Windows.
4. If you lost a BIOS-level password, you can try resetting or bypassing it. First, try backdoor passwords as listed at Tech Faq. If none works, try resetting your CMOS--as discussed in "Problem: Your computer won't boot"--to cause the BIOS to reset to its default state. Replace the battery and then restore the jumper to its original position and reboot your system.

How to Avoid It Next Time: If password loss is a frequent problem, consider writing them down and keeping them in your wallet, or storing them in a bank safe deposit box or a safe at home--just make sure you don't lose the key.